How to smoke a trout

We didn’t buy our house with food in mind. It was only after we moved into it that we started thinking in terms of dinner. And so we put in a garden, we got chickens, and we built a hoophouse. There was one food, though, that came with the place. We live on a 110-acre […]

Onion soup, with authority

Nobody doesn’t like Julia Child, and I’m no exception. I like her books, her television shows, her enthusiasm. And her voice! Irresistible. Her recipes taught a generation of Americans about French food, and her approach instilled the confidence to cook it. Nobody doesn’t like Julia Child, but her onion soup recipe is off. By a […]

Friends don’t let friends can alone

It’s canning season. You know what that means, don’t you? It means that, all across the country, people are taking perfectly good fruit, cooking all the nutrition out of it, adding unconscionable amounts of sugar, and putting it in cute little jars. Count me in! It’s a sickness, canning. The lure of a pantry full […]

How to use up cucumbers

Just last week, I thought I had too many cucumbers. Now I’m afraid I don’t have enough. What’s happened in between has been this: Cucumber Yogurt Cooler (makes 16 ounces) 1 very large or two small slicing cucumbers, refrigerated, peeled, and cut in chunks ½ cup plain yogurt (I use goat yogurt, but use what […]

Bluefish with bacon, onions, and tomatoes

It’s a damn good thing bluefish aren’t delicious. At least, they’re not delicious most of the time. A bluefish has to be treated just so, or it degenerates into a pile of nasty, oily, fish flesh in record time. A science aside: there are two reasons for this. One is good old oxidation, in which […]