What we’ve been smoking

The easiest way to smoke an oyster

We’re awash in oysters. They aren’t the ones we’re growing, they’re the ones the town grows, and plants for harvest by recreational shellfish permit holders. We’re recreational shellfish permit holders, and the oysters will be there for the taking for the next few weeks. The limit is a half-peck per week, which comes to about […]

Monsters of the deep fryer

Les Hemmila, oysterman, on his farm

There’s a special place in hell for whoever invented deep frying. Not that I can’t see its utility. Here’s a cooking technique that renders just about anything not only edible but delicious, which is a real boon in time of scarcity. If you’re stranded on a dessert island with nothing to eat but tubers and […]

Down on the oyster farm

Florence suiting up for oystering

There’s oystering, and then there’s oystering. For me, oystering involves wandering around in the shallows at low tide with a rake and a bucket, looking for specimens over three inches long. For my friend Florence, oystering is an entirely different proposition. Florence has an oyster grant, a two-acre parcel in the flats of Barnstable Harbor […]

Better than chowder

Over the past year, Kevin and I have worked harder for our food than either of us ever thought we would. We’ve spent a lot of time doing smelly, dirty, heavy jobs. We’ve made mistakes and we’ve suffered setbacks. We’ve been hurt, we’ve been scared, we’ve been overly optimistic. But our life is not without […]

Bivalve trifecta

Kevin out musseling

It was three-day, three-shellfish weekend. Saturday was clams. Sunday, oysters. And Monday, for the first time, we went for mussels. Mussels are the gateway shellfish. If you’re a little intimidated by clamming or oystering because of the expertise, special equipment, and fortitude involved, then musseling is for you. You just wait for low tide and […]