Moving day

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I know what you’ve been thinking. You’ve been thinking, “When is Tamar going to tell us more about the fine points of oyster farming?” You’ve been waiting, on tenterhooks, to hear about water temperature and salinity, and to see yet more pictures of a product that always looks the same.

I’m here to oblige! By the time I’m done with you, you’ll be ready to start your own farm!

Oyster farming isn’t even that hard. In theory, at least. All you’re trying to do is allow nutrient-rich water to flow around each and every one of your charges. Really, that’s all it is. In practice, it comes down to an endless series of engineering challenges.

When the oysters are small, you need some kind of container that lets water in but doesn’t let pin-head size oysters out. Anything mesh with very small holes is likely to get fouled with silt, oyster feces, or miscellaneous weedy things, and the challenge is to either prevent that or find an easy way to clean the mesh. Or, more likely, a little bit of both.

As the oysters grow, they go into bags with larger mesh that are less likely to foul, but there are other problems. In order to keep the oysters from clumping up in a corner, the bags have to be stiff, but any infrastructure that stiffens a bag is also likely to trap oysters in corners and behind frames. Those oysters are seldom salvageable.

Once they’re big enough – two inches, or a little less – they go in trays. The trays have to be kept off the sea floor, so water flows both over and under, but the weight of the oysters tends to make them sink. The legs should resist sinking, but not prevent the trays from stacking for winter storage.

Because wave action often pushes oysters into a corner, too many oysters in a tray can lead to spillout as the pile in the corner gets higher than the side of the tray. Too few oysters in a tray, and you end up spending a lot of time growing not very many oysters.

You need to use materials that do everything you need them to, and do it while withstanding near-constant immersion in salt water. You need those materials to be durable, cheap, and, ideally, light. It’s a tall order.

I’m glad to say we get a little better at all this each year. We’ve changed the way we suspend the bags with the baby oysters. Our first set of trays taught us a lot, and our second set was a little different. We’ve reduced our density to the point where we have more uniform growth and less spillout.

But there are lots of things we can’t control. We’re affected by those things you’ve been dying to hear about, like water temperature and salinity! Weather can jostle things around, and affect the nutrient level in the water. If our neighbor is pumping steamers, some of the silt he pumps up can land on our crop. Sometimes, there are clear reasons that one part of the farm gets muddy, or another part seems to foster faster growth. Other times, the reasons are mysterious. The hydrodynamics of a large, shallow harbor with a ten-foot tide are complicated.

One of the things we didn’t expect, at least that first year, is the way silt and mud build up under the trays. When we put them out in March and April, there’s a good six inches of clearance. By September, the ground has risen up to meet the trays, and water no longer flows underneath them.

The muck in the tray will get washed out now that the tray is moved

I don’t know why that happens, but I’m sure there’s a perfectly reasonable explanation, probably involving hydrodynamics. Ideally, I’d like to know what that explanation is, but I don’t think it would do me much good – I’m pretty sure there’s nothing we can do to prevent it. The only thing we can do is move the trays, and that’s exactly what we did this past week.

Moving the trays is one of those jobs – and there are many – that make me glad we’re farming on a small scale. While moving a tray isn’t terribly difficult, doing it 250 times can wear on you.

The trays have market-size oysters in them, small oysters in bags on top of them, and, sometimes, mud. The lightest weigh as little as twenty pounds, and the heaviest as much as seventy. It’s a two-man job: Kevin takes one side, I take the other, and we lift the tray out of the ground and move it three feet into what was, until today, the aisle. The job is complicated by the fact that, in order to move the tray, one of us has to step in the pile of mud that has accumulated under it. It’s six inches of boot-sucking muck, sucking at your boot for all it’s worth.

You extricate your foot, and move on to the next tray.

A row, after

A row, after

We did the job in one tide, and the oysters are now muck-free, with water flowing above and below. Oh, and one other thing – they’re astonishingly good. Kevin and I don’t take any credit for the flavor of our oysters. It’s something in the water. We’re farming in what Kevin calls “the Napa Valley of oysters,” and I can say with confidence that we – along with all our neighbors – are growing some of the best bivalves on the east coast.

A couple weeks back, we participated in the Barnstable Oysterfest, a fund-raiser organized by our friends at Wianno Oyster and Barnstable Seafarms, that celebrated the products coming out of the Napa Valley of oysters. Kevin and I shucked several hundred for the attendees, each of whom paid $100. for the privilege of eating a sampling of what local farmers are growing, and local restaurants are cooking. It’s not often that we get to shuck an oyster, hand it to a stranger, and watch as he eats it.

And then he makes that face. That “this is outrageously delicious” face. And he tells you, flat out, that you grow a wonderful product.

I’m telling you, it’s worth a lot of heavy lifting.

Oyster farming with Serpico!

Oyster farming with Serpico!

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Comments

  1. It really does sound amazing. You are blessed.

  2. I may not be a stranger, but I sure do make that same face. Those oysters of yours…well, they just ring my bell.

  3. Rebeccaraye says:

    I love this! And I want to find a way to do this on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Time to start asking around on how to get what I guess is a “lease”? Any ideas on how to start?

    Rebecca

    • Rebecca — The process varies so much from state to state, and even from town to town, that I couldn’t begin to advise you. I will, however, wish you the best of luck!

      • Rebeccaraye says:

        Checking with our local memeber of the Chesapeake Bay Foundation … figure they probably know. Thanks! Love your blog. We just got our first chickens and your details have been so helpful! Next year pigs!

  4. OMG, it IS Serpico! I always wondered what happened to that guy. Glad to see he’s found peace in seaside living.

  5. Tamar, just saw the first of your new monthly post column on GMOs–way to go!

  6. clarification: not GMOs, but genetically modified food. i’m looking forward to the discussion, and hope (although I’m not exactly confident) that some reasoned discussion results. The topic is interesting: I’m usually a person who would be hewing to the scientific arguments, but I find myself very much on the fence on this issue. I don’t distrust the scientific arguments supporting genetically modified foods per se, but given research I’ve done recently related to my husband’s Crohn’s and other inflammatory diseases, I also feel like we are currently making new discoveries about our bodies evolved capability to process such foods, and that current scientific testing doesn’t take this into account–yet. That’s why (for me) a Monsanto is a bit scary, because I fear that their power in the marketplace and bully tactics will result in genetically modifed foods becoming the one and only choice, before we can be truly sure they are a truly safe alternative.

    • Potato — I, too, am looking forward to reasoned discussion. And there are lots of people out there, I think, ready to engage. It’s just that the loudest voices have been the most extreme.

      With regard to diet, I think there’s good reason to believe that our modern American version isn’t healthful. The thing about GMOs, though, is that they’re primarily in processed foods. If you’re buying whole foods, you’re buying almost no GMOs (papayas, and a couple varietals of some vegetables, are). If you’re buying processed foods, you’re buying GMOs, but I think the important part of that is that you’re buying processed foods. It’s unlikely that the genetic modification is detrimental.

      I understand the suspicion, and all I ask is that we all spend time with the evidence.

      • “I understand the suspicion, and all I ask is that we all spend time with the evidence.”

        I am right there with you, and you taught me something right there when you mentioned that whole foods are for the most part not GMO. That’s very good to know, as we’ve already been trying to keep away from processed foods. i really look forward to your upcoming articles; part of the challenge is trying to sift through all the information out there–so much of it biased one way or another–to find The Facts.